Mountaineering :: Trekking :: Ski touring


This was the third expedition that I have led to this peak after previous visits in 2000 and 2001. Each of these expeditions were for Jagged Globe  and there are reports for all three expeditions on the Jagged Globe website together with a selection of photographs.

Below is a copy of the report that I wrote about the 2005 expedition for the Jagged Globe website.

David Hamilton

Spantik Report 2005

Ten members of the expedition reached the summit of Spantik on the morning of August 21 2005.  This was a very creditable achievement given the poor weather conditions in the Karakoram this season and the general lack of success among the climbing expeditions.

A total of six teams attempted Spantik during July and August - four were unsuccessful and a private German group got two members to the top.  Thus the Jagged Globe team claimed ten of the total of twelve summiteers on this popular peak up to the end of August 2005. This result would not have been possible without the excellent work of the five High Altitude Porters (HAP) who worked with the expedition, four of whom climbed to the summit: Rosi Ali, Shukur Ali, Furman, Fakir Mahmat.  The other summiteers were: Helen Dickens, Alistair Duff, Wyn Morgan, Rich Squire, David Hamilton (leader) and Neil Pitts (asst leader). Helen was the only woman to climb Spantik in 2005 (to date) and may be the first British woman to have climbed the peak.  3 other members of the expedition: Ian Birch, Amanda Jones and Stuart McCloskey reached CIII (6250m) - a personal high point for each one of them.  2 expedition members - Benedict Jenks and Rod Mann left the group early due to health problems.

The weather was mostly unsettled during the expeditions stay in Base Camp (BC) and the group worked hard to make the best use of the short periods of good weather.  Three camps were established on the mountain: CI - 5160m; CII 5670m; CIII 6250m and the team spent a total of seven nights sleeping at camps above BC.  On the lower sections of the climb, daytime temperatures were very high necessitating pre dawn starts to avoid soft snow conditions.  Summit day was very cold with temperatures around -20C when the group left CIII at 0100hrs.  Three HAPs broke trail to the summit with the first clients reaching the top at 0700hrs.

Delays in the early part of the expedition led to a later summit day than originally intended and the group was forced to make a quick descent and hurried evacuation to Skardu in order to connect with homeward flights to the UK from Islamabad.

All members of the group agreed that the expedition had offered interesting and varied climbing plus an insight into the limitless possibilities for mountaineering in the Karakoram Himalaya.  The ascent proved to be more physically demanding than some members had expected but it was agreed that Spantik was an excellent training expedition for anyone considering an 8000m ascent.


David Hamilton
High Adventure
67 Castle Road
CV10 0SG


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