The story of climbing in the Karakoram this summer was one of unusually hot and sunny weather. Long hours of warm sunshine and cloud free blue skies were pleasant for sunbathing in basecamps, but led to difficult trekking and climbing conditions at lower altitudes (below 5000m). Many would consider themselves lucky to experience an entire trip to the Himalyas without encountering rain or snow. Few would think that excessive heat can also bring problems.
This was the third Jagged Globe trip to Khosar Gang that I have led in recent years. None of the Karakoram trekking peaks see comparable visitor numbers to the busy Nepalese trekking peaks, but Khosar Gang is probably the most popular 6000m mountain in Pakistan. It is possibly attempted by a dozen teams or more during the 10 week summer climbing season. The peak is close to the regional capital of Skardu and basecamp can be reached in a single day. Given good conditions and good fortune Khosar Gang can be climbed in a 2 week trip from Europe, but nothing in Pakistan is ever simple and success is not assured.
I had been in Skardu for a few days making preparations when the 5 climbers on the team joined me in mid June. Our plan was to climb the peak at the start of the season to benefit from slightly more snow, and avoid the icy conditions that can develop later in the summer. We made a small change to the 2024 itinerary and added a 24 hour acclimatisation trip to Sadpara village, This enabled us to overnight at 3000m and hike up to 3500m during the day. The weather was cloudy and a little damp overnight and this was the last rain we encountered on the trip.
I remember when all travel in Baltistan involved uncomfortable rides in basic jeeps along unsealed roads. Many new roads and bridges have been built making travel easier, quicker, and more comfortable. In a single (long!) day we drove from Sadpara back to Skardu for breakfast, and on to the roadhead in the Shigar valley before the long climb on a dusty path to Khosar Gang BC. The ground underfoot was fairly good as this path is used by many animals to access the high pastures above the village of Sildi. There were no trees to offer shade from the baking sun, but a gentle breeze helped to prevent overheating.
By 16.30 the team arrived at our ‘private’ basecamp on a small grass promontory with commanding views over the valley below. The last of our 40 porters arrived an hour later as a short violent windstorm interrupted our efforts to set up tents and establish camp. The following day was an opportunity for a well earned rest and a chance make BC comfortable, while getting used to life at 4000m.
We were aiming to be the first team of the season to climb Khosar Gang, and were the only people on the mountain. The space at both Camp1 and Camp 2 is quite limited. New tent platforms have been added recently and it is now possible for more than one group to occupy each site. But it was nice to be alone on the mountain and have the campsites to ourselves.
Over the next few days we made several trips to Camp 1. The first part of the climb involved a grass slope while the second part followed a rocky ridge. We always made an early start to complete the climb in the morning and avoid the afternoon heat. By the 3rd time we climbed to Camp 1 we completed the 800m ascent in under 4 hours. While we were acclimatising at Camp 1 our local staff were already busy carring tents and kit to Camp 2. On 23 June after we had slept twice at Camp 1 we were ready to proceed to Camp 2. This was a shorter journey gaining a little over 400m, but including a small section of rock scrambling.
The tent sites at Camp 2 and a large section of rocky ground above was snow free. This was unusual for the month of June. The snow cover on the mountain was significantly less than I had seen previously. We were there at the start of the season, but the level of the snowline made it look like much later in the summer. We settled into Camp 2 enjoying the fine weather and looked forward to climbing to the summit the following morning.
I have climbed many mountains in the greater ranges where there is no fixed ropes or shared infrastructure. In these areas it is normal for every climbing team to travel with their own equipment. If needed ropes can be fixed in position during the climb and removed after the ascent. On the more frequented peaks it is more efficient for local climbers to fix ropes at the start of the season and maintain them for all the visiting groups. This has been the situation on Khosar Gang in recent years.
During our time on the mountain we were aware that no one had yet reached the summit in the 2025 season. We were looking forward to being the first and offered to share our resources of staff and equipment to facilitate the rope fixing. There had been talk of a crevasse high on the slopes that was causing a problem for the local rope fixing team, and so it was not certain that the way to the summit would be open for us.
At 01.00 on 24 June 2 members of our local staff set off for the summit along with the man in charge of the local rope fixing team. Our climbing group together with 2 more local staff started an hour later. Weather conditions were near perfect and the snow underfoot was good, neither too soft nor too icy. We made slow but steady progress following the fixed ropes upwards on moderately steep slopes. We were now climbing above 5000m just 10 days after leaving the UK. Dawn came and the sky brightened but we were protected from the intense heat of the sun as we were on the shadow side of the mountain. At around 07.30 the ground levelled out and we got our first views of the giant Karakoram peaks to the East.
We were only 100m from the summit when the fixed ropes abruptly ended. The rope fixing team had run out of rope short of the summit. The ground ahead was fairly steep and quite icy. I briefly considered continuing with the team on a ‘short rope’ but concluded that the ground was too icy and this would not be safe. Everyone was tired, the sun was getting hot and therefore heading down seemed the smartest option. I took a few quick pictures, with K2 visible in the distance, before we turned around and made a quick descent to Camp 2.
This was a frustrating outcome. The whole team had enjoyed a successful and happy expedition. The only thing that was missing was the final 100m of fixed rope to the summit. If the local rope fixing team had been more honest with us before our summit bid we could have provided the extra rope needed and the manpower to put in place. After nearly 40 years of climbing in the Karakoram some aspects of the local politics and culture are still beyond my understanding.
There is definitely a large amount of unpredictability about travel in Pakistan, and a large amount of uncertainty about climbing in the Karakoram. We had done everything that we could to address all the expected problems, only to be faced at last minute by an unforeseen issue. Setting any disappointment aside we resolved to make a safe return to basecamp and enjoy our remaining few days in the mountains of the Karakoram.
The steep descent from basecamp to the roadhead was much easier and quicker than the trip made in the other direction a week before. On the way back to Skardu we stopped at a pleasant fruit and flower garden to enjoy delicious cherries. Then there was time for a culture break at the 16th century Shigar Fort and museum, before an impressive lunch in the outdoor restaurant in the shade of grape vines and apricot trees. All too soon it was time for hot showers and clean clothes in Skardu before flying back to the lowland heat of Islamabad.
The 2 week trip to the Karakoram had delivered almost everything a climber could have wished for; good company, good weather, and good experiences. But not the chance to climb that final 100m to the summit of the mountain.
David Hamilton (24 July 2025)