I led this expedition for Jagged Globe in August 2022. This is an edited version of the report written for the Jagged Globe website.
My first expedition to 6046m Khosar Gang in the Karakoram recorded 100% success with all 8 climbers reaching the summit on the morning of 9th August 2022. This expedition had been planned to take place in August 2020 but was postponed for two years due to Covid related travel restrictions. There are very few 6000m peaks in the Himalayan region that can be climbed safely and reliably in a 2 week trip from Europe. When my local staff in Pakistan made an ascent of Khosar Gang a few years ago and sent me a report I was keen to explore the potential of this peak.
Improved reliability of the Islamabad - Skardu flights and a major upgrade to the road network were also key to ensuring that this expedition could run smoothly as a 2 week trip. Unlike many Karakoram climbs the basecamp for Khosar Gang can be reached in a single day from the regional capital, Skardu. Three days after leaving the UK the team were established in a comfortable grass basecamp located at 4000m above the Shigar valley. Over the next few days our local staff carried tents and equipment to Camp 1 (4800m) and Camp 2 (5200m). Both camps were located below the snowline. The route to Camp 1 was a steep grass slope carpeted with Edelweiss, followed by a broad rocky ridge. This ridge became narrower and steeper for the first part of the route to Camp 2 before becoming noticeably easier closer to camp. These sections of the climb could all be done wearing trekking shoes or light trekking boots.
After an acclimatisation climb to Camp 2 on 5 Aug the team returned to base camp for a rest day. They then set out for Camp 1 on 7 Aug, and climbed again to Camp 2 on 8 Aug. The following day had always been regarded as the most likely summit day, and a good weather forecast enabled the team to start out at 02.00. Previous reports had indicated that the summit slopes were normally snow covered, but a long period of warm weather with little snowfall meant that the mountain was unusually icy. We had been told that a previous party had fixed over 1000m of rope on the upper slopes and we had initially doubted that this was necessary. However, given the amount of steep ice (over 30 degrees in places) and lack of snow cover the ropes made the climb much safer.
The team climbed efficiently on the fixed ropes in the two hours before dawn and found themselves at about 5500m by 04.00 when the sun began to show through the clouds. The slope remained at a uniform steepness until a small bergshrund at 5750m marked the start of a short steeper section. This led to a coll at 5800m and the start of the summit slopes. At last the ground became easier with a more gentle gradient and snow instead of ice. The clouds drifted in and out as the team approached the summit. The peaks of Haramosh and Spantik could be seen to the West with Rakaposhi in the far distance. From the summit ridge the Ogre and Latok were visible to the North. Cloud cover to the East prevented views of the Karakoram 8000m peaks.
Everyone reached the 6046m summit in a 10 minute spell just before 08.00hrs. We all sat down for a rest and took a few pictures before starting the long descent. For some of the team this was a personal altitude record, while others (including Everest summiteers) agreed that it had not been an 'easy' climb. The descent to Camp 2 took a further 4 hours and tested everyone's abilities to abseil and downclimb on steep icy slopes. Luckily the sun had softened the ice and it was not quite as firm as it had been on the ascent a few hours before.
After a brief rest at Camp 2 the team decided to continue down to base camp. Our local staff dismantled the tents at Camp 2 and then did the same at Camp 1. Very slowly we made our way down to base camp finally arriving at 18.00hrs to complete a 16 hour day with 800m of ascent and 2000m of descent.
Everyone was very happy with the climb and pleased that the whole team had made it to the top. Summit day had provided more challenging climbing than anyone had expected, but good equipment and a high level of skill and competence shown by every member of the team enabled everyone to reach the summit and make a safe descent.
David Hamilton, Skardu, 11 August 2022