This was my second expedition to this peak following a very successful visit in 2022 when all 9 climbers reached the summit. The outcome was quite different this year. There were only 3 people in the team. Two were ill early in the trip and did not climb above base camp, the third climber spent a night at camp one before deciding not to climb any higher. Hassan (one of the Pakistani staff working with our expedition) assisted the local rope fixing team on Khosar Gang and made the first ascent of the season on 19th June, thus opening the route for several other expeditions to reach the summit later in the summer.

David Hamilton. Skardu July 2024