There is one thing that all the climbers on this trip agreed on: it was either the ‘best’ or the ‘worst’ trip that they had ever been on. It just wasn’t clear which it was. In truth, some aspects probably belonged in the best experiences category, while other aspects would definitely rank with the worst experiences.

The aims of the trip were very ambitious from the start. Normally treks in the Karakoram require a 3 week journey from home, and many climbing expeditions need at least 4 weeks. To try and climb a substantial peak in 2 weeks would be very ambitious. But to try and visit 2 different high altitude environments and climb 2 peaks, 100km apart, in 2 weeks sounds to be near impossible.

In summer 2023 Jagged Globe leader David Hamilton and local Balti guide Mohammad Sharif visited and climbed Shatung Peak 5260m and Bargancho Peak 5650m to check if such a project was feasible. They found that both peaks could be approached quickly and the routes to the summits were ‘possible’ if not exactly ‘easy’. Neither peak is climbed often and this creates several challenges: there are no easy trails to follow and local porters are unfamiliar with the terrain.

The trip notes described the expedition as ‘fast paced’. When the team met in Skardu they were told that they were the ‘guinea pigs’ for a new style of fast and light Himalayan expedition. Back in Skardu 12 days later, with both peaks climbed, it was suggested that the term ‘intense experience’ should be added to any future description. It would have been nice to have a few rest days added in, but for many of the climbers the 2 week timescale worked, and anything longer would not.

The trip highlights are almost too many to mention:

Top must be the incredible hospitality and friendship of the hundreds of local people that we worked with or met during our time in Baltistan. Everywhere we went we were met by local people who could not have been more welcoming: the villagers working in the fields of Sadpara where we made our first hike, the cattle herders in the high pastures of Deosai, the porters who carried our bags to Shatung BC, the family of Hassan the Policeman who twice welcomed us to their home for a meal, the villagers of Arandu (the village at the end of a terrible road), the Arandu porters who carried our bags up and down to & from Bargancho high camp, the cattle herder with 4 small children living at Haral camp. Plus our own crew of local staff (cook, kitchen assistant, guide, assistant guide, and High Altitude Porters) who supported us above and beyond what could be expected on every day of the trip.

The hiking was varied covering a large variety of landscapes from open grassland to steep rocky hillsides. Everywhere we looked the views were incredible.

The rarely climbed route on the north face of Shatung peak was technical enough to be interesting without anywhere being too difficult. The final 100m ice headwall gave some members of the team their first experience of using fixed ropes in a dramatic setting.

Seeing the distinctive outlines of Nanga Parbat to the west and K2 to the North at sunrise was a special experience.

Some members of the team had never climbed outside Europe so set personal altitude records climbing Shatung and Bargancho.

And the downsides?

Arriving at Shatung BC after a ‘challenging’ 10 hour summit night/day to pack camp quickly for a 2 hour hike back to jeep camp in expectation of a 3-4 hour ride back to Skardu only to be caught in a very violent rain and hail storm that turned paths into rivers and fields into lakes. Everyone and everything was totally soaked, and the hailstones hurt!

The Deosai plateau is home to an incredible variety of plants and animals. But the mosquitoes are terrible!

Hiking across glaciers covered in loose rocks and rubble for hours with no discernable paths to follow is not fun.

The climb from Arandu to Bargancho high camp, climbing over 2000m in 2 days in the hot sun was hard work.

The day before and the day after our Summit day on Bargancho had perfect weather. On the day we climbed there was rain, hail and snow with only occasional clear spells. Much of the climbing was done on in the dark, in poor weather, following a GPS track through a featureless landscape. There were no views from the top.

Wading thigh deep (that’s my thigh and I am 6’ 3”) rivers of fast flowing water and watching chunks of ice float past results in very cold feet.

Overall the trip was a great success, made possible by the enthusiasm and positive attitude of the 9 climbers of many nationalities (USA, Canada, Spain, France, Pakistan, UK). We had 7 people on the summit of Shatung plus 3 local staff, and 5 people on the summit of Bargancho plus 2 local staff. But the trip was about much more than the summits and each day was an adventure. Every day was hard work but we are all returning home with a wealth of memories, many new friends and the beginning of an enduring love affair with the people and mountains of the Karakoram

David Hamilton, Skardu, 9/8/24