Catalan Pyrenees : Arles-Sur-Tech to L'hospitalet-Près-L'andorre
Stages P04 – P12
Arles-Sur-Tech (270m) to Gîte de Batère (1450m)
18/01/2020
Stage: P04
Maps: French IGN 1/25,000: 2449OT Céret / Amelie-les-Bains & 2349ET Canigou
Time: 4.30hrs (dept 8.45 / arrive 13.15)
Distance: 12km (ascent 1338m / descent 200m)
Weather: Clear and sunny.
Notes: An interesting hike mostly following a ridge. Much of the path follows the route of an old cableway that used to serve the mine at Batère. This section is a steady climb on the GR10 from 250m to 1500m. Pass Refuge Des Vigourats at c900m after 7km. There is road access from Arles-Sur-Tech to the gîte which can be useful for ski and equipment transport. In Jan 2020 there was a diversion on the GR10 leaving Arles-Sur-Tech due to a landslide the previous year.
Accommodation: Gîte de Batère (private Gite) is unlikely to open in winter, but there are several options for a bivouac nearby.
Accommodation options: Refuge Des Vigourats (884m) located 4km before the Gite is a basic refuge with space for 5. It is a small part of a larger building entered by a well-hidden door inside or below one of the other buildings!
Six day delay
19/01/2020 - 24/01/2020
Mediterranean storm ‘Gloria’ caused flooding in the valleys, with damage to roads and bridges, plus heavy snowfall at altitude.
Gîte de Batère (1450m) to Chalet Des Cortalets (2150m)
25/01/2020
Stage: P05
Map: French IGN 1/25,000: 2349ET Canigou
Time: 11.00hrs (dept 08.30 / arrive 19.30)
Distance: 16.3km (ascent 1370m / descent 672m)
Weather: Clear morning with more overcast afternoon.
Notes: This whole stage follows the GR10, mostly along narrow forest paths. A 300m climb from the hut to Col de la Cirere (1731m), then a 300m descent to the Refuge Estanyol (1479m). A short climb leads to Abri Pinatell (1650m) followed by a long fairly level section to Ras del Prat Cabrera (1739m). There are 2 paths from here and chose the lower/easier one following the GR 10/36 to Ras des Cortalets (2055m). From here is a short 100m climb to the CAF Chalet.
Accommodation: Chalet Des Cortalets CAF is closed in winter However there is a small ‘open’ cabin next to it that has basic facilities. There is some confusion concerning names: the CAF hut is called a Chalet on the IGN map, but a Refuge on the CAF website. There is a separate building, the basic 4 person Cabane Cortalets less than 1km from the CAF building.
Alternative accommodation: The trail passes 2 reasonable options: Cabane Pastorale de l’Estanyol (1350m) after 5km, and Abri Pinatell (1650m) 3km further on. The first is open and available to use, the second has been closed due to an infestation of bed bugs.
Conditions: We had a difficult day following narrow paths through thick forest with deep snow and many fallen trees blocking the route. Several stream beds had become avalanche run outs. In easier conditions the stage would be several hours shorter.
Chalet Des Cortalets (2150m) to Cabane pastoral de Mariailles (1718m)
26/01/2020
Stage: P06
Map: French IGN 1/25,000: 2349ET Canigou
Time: 9.45hrs (dept 08.15 / arrive 18.00)
Distance: 11.2km (ascent 791m / descent 1235m)
Weather: Clear morning becoming more overcast in the afternoon. Some low clouds on Canigou summit.
Notes: We followed the normal summer route from Chalet Des Cortalets to the summit Canigou (2784m) via the North ridge, using crampons and ice axe for the final 150m. From the summit descend the Cheminee route, just to the west of the south ridge. This requires a 25m abseil, or some very delicate down climbing. We used a 50m rope. After some initial steepness (35 - 40 degrees) the slopes ease off giving good ski terrain. The route descends west into the valley and passes the refuge Arago (2123m). From pt1964m stay on the south side of the valley and join the GR10 path through the forest to pt1686m. Cross the stream coming in from the south and join a forest road heading south towards the refuge.
Accommodation: Cabane pastoral de Mariailles is a basic ‘open’ refuge.
Alternative accommodation: Refuge Arago is a small basic refuge. The Refuge de Mariailles is a private refuge that is unlikely to open in winter.
Conditions: The ascent and descent of Canigou was straightforward. The difficulties began on the forest traverse after the Ref Arago. The trail was indistinct, under deep snow with many fallen trees and other obstacles. This slowed us considerably and meant that we could not continue to Ref Du Pla Guillem as planned.
Cabane pastoral de Mariailles (1718m) to Refuge de la Porteille de Rotja (2377m)
27/01/2020
Stage: P07
Map: French IGN 1/25,000: 2349ET Canigou
Time: 6.45hrs (dept 08.15 / arrive 15.00)
Distance: 14.8km (ascent 1036m / descent 371m)
Weather: Sunny and clear with some high clouds.
Notes: This section does not include any parts of the GR10 or the HRP. Climb on a good path to the Ref Du Pla Guillem (2260m) then follow a ridgeline heading SW. Depending on snow conditions it may be preferable to be on the crest taking in several minor summits, or stay on the summer hiking trail on the north side of the ridge about 50m below the crest.
Accommodation: Refuge de la Porteille de Rotja (2377m). A small basic refuge with space for 6-8 people that may be buried under snow.
Alternative accommodation:
Ref Du Pla Guillem (2260m). A medium size but basic CAF refuge. The door is often buried in snow.
Refuge Da Silva (1900m) is about half way through the stage, but more than 1km off the route to the north. The facilities are said to be basic.
Conditions: Sections of the ridge were very icy, other parts had decent snow.
We arrived at the refuge at the same time as two Frenchmen on snowshoes and shared the work of digging into the hut.
Refuge de la Porteille de Rotja (2377m) to Refugi d’Ulldeter (2235m)
28/01/2020
Stage: P08
Maps: French IGN 1/25,000: 2349ET Canigou & 2250ET Bourg – Madame / Mont Louis & Editorial Alpina 1/25,000: Puigmal
Time: 5.00hrs (dept 08.10 / arrive 13.10) includes a one hour lunch stop at Valletta ski area.
Distance: 8.9km (ascent 390m / descent 543m)
Weather: Clear and sunny
Notes: The continuation of the ridge from the refuge is straightforward as far as the Portella de Morens (2382m). It is then a simple descent to the ski area at Vallter. The main Vallter ski resort is at 2162m. There is a restaurant at the Vallter ski area that should be open during the day. The only hotel at Vallter ‘Hostal d’Alta Muntanya Pastuira’ was closed in February 2020.
Accommodation: Refugi d’Ulldeter (2235m) is reported to have full service and is open at weekends. At other times there is a separate building with winter accommodation ‘Refugi Lliuri’ 25m from the hut. This is about one hour beyond the ski area.
Alternative accommodation: The Hostal d’Alta Muntanya Pastuira is located at 2000m at the foot of the lower ski lift. This was closed when we wanted to stay.
Refugi d’Ulldeter (2235m) to Nuria (1900m)
29/01/2020
Stage: P09
Maps: French IGN 1/25,000: 2250ET Bourg – Madame / Mont Louis & Editorial Alpina 1/25,000: Puigmal
Time: 4.40hrs (dept 08.20 / arrive 13.00)
Distance: 12.9km (ascent 838m / descent 1111m)
Weather: Warm and sunny.
Notes: This a high altitude section mostly between 2500m and 2800m. The route follows a mountain ridge taking in several summits. It is marked as being part of the HRP and GR11 trails. From the Refugi d’Ulldeter it a short skin up a ski piste to approach the Coll de la Marrana (2529m). Descend westwards into the valley and continue in the same direction to Pic inf de Vaca (2820m). Follow the ridge to Pic de la Fossa del Gegant (2808m). Descend an easy slope to Nuria.
Accommodation: Nuria is only accessible from the south by funicular railway. Alberg pic de l’Aliga a Nuria (2122m) is located at the top of a ski lift 200m above the village.
Alternative Accommodation: There is an emergency cabane (2700m) shown on the map located approx halfway. However this small stone structure was totally buried under snow and unusable.
Observations: In good snow conditions this area is popular with local skiers. We saw a dozen people on tours from Vallter or Nuria.
Nuria (1900m) to Font Romeu (1600m)
30/01/2020
Stage: P10
Maps: Map: French IGN 1/25,000: 2250ET Bourg – Madame / Mont Louis & Editorial Alpina 1/25,000: Puigmal
Time: 8.45hrs (dept 8.30hrs / arrive 17.15)
Distance: 27.6km (ascent 1375m / descent 1583m)
Weather: Mostly warm and sunny.
Notes: This is a day of two contrasting parts. The first is on skis and the second is on foot. The ski section starts with a steep 600m climb to the Coll de Finestrelles (2604m) followed by a steep 800m descent into a valley. The ascent is straightforward, and the descent is very good to the tree line. The final few hundred meters through the trees is challenging but not too difficult. After Refuge Culassa the road down the valley is followed, until the snow line. From the village of Llo it is a 15km walk by track and road to Font-Romeu. Depending on snow conditions in the valley it may be preferable to follow the line of the ‘yellow railway’ for much of the way.
Accommodation: There are many hotels in Font Romeu
Alternative accommodation: Refuge Culassa (1834m) is small (5 pax) and poor quality with broken door and windows. It is located at the end of the ski descent.
Supply options: There are supermarkets and ski shops in Font Romeu.
Font Romeu (1600m) to Cabane de Rouzet (2260m)
31/01/2020
Stage: P11
Map: Map: French IGN 1/25,000: 2249ET Font Romeu
Time: 8.20hrs (dept 08.00hrs / arrive 16.20)
Distance: 20.6km (ascent 1170m / descent 675m)
Weather: Mix of sunshine and clouds, with mild temperatures.
Notes: A long stage covering a lot of ground through easy terrain. Start by finding a route from the town of Font Romeu to the parking and ski lifts at 1930m (directly under the cable car). Climb up through the ski area heading NW to Mollera dels Clots (2040m). Climb to the top of the ski lifts 2200m and descend the other side of the ridge on ski pistes. Follow the GR10 trail on flat ground for under 2km to the East side of the dam. Head N along the W side of the lake then follow the long valley of la Tet to Portella de la Grava (2426m). Descend easily to Cabane de Rouzet.
Accommodation: Cabane de Rouzet (2260m) is a small basic cabin with no beds or facilities. However it has been renovated recently and is in good condition.
Alternative accommodation: These 3 options are all close to Font Romeu that can be reached in approx 3 hours.
Refuge des Bouilouses CAF is road accessible but was closed in winter 2020.
Abri de L'estany de la Pradella (1960m) is small and quite basic with 2 bunks and space for 2 more on the floor.
Abri de la Calme Nord (1960m) is 600m away (on the opposite side of the ski lift) and is similar in size and facilities.
Cabane de Rouzet (2260m) to L'hospitalet-Près-L'andorre (1421m)
01/02/2020
Stage: P12
Maps: Map: French IGN 1/25,000: 2249ET Font Romeu & 2249OT Bourg – Madame
Time: 6.40hrs (dept 0.8.20 / arrive 15.00)
Distance: 18.4km (ascent 936m / descent 1760m)
Weather: Overcast at first then light rain until early afternoon.
Notes: A moderate day heading directly west crossing two cols before a long descent. The route climbs to the Portella de Lanos (c2500m). The exact location of the pass is not obvious and takes care to locate. Descend to Refuge de la Besines. From here there is a more direct route to L'hospitalet-Près-L'andorre via Bois Long, but the forest track is reported to be difficult. The route we followed requires 400m of additional climbing but follows a popular local ski touring route over the Portella de la Cama (2534m). Descend to pt 1955m and then traverse northwards following the GR 107 to L'hospitalet-Près-L'andorre.
Accommodation: There is a Gite and a Hotel at L'hospitalet-Près-L'andorre
Alternative accommodation:
Refuge Les Bésines CAF 2104m, 16 beds/mattresses/blankets, no stove.
Cabane des Besines (1981m), a ‘reasonable’ small refuge for 6 pax.
Refuge Du Barrage Des Besines (1975m), a basic small refuge.
Resupply options: we collected supplies of food, fuel, maps, batteries, etc for Section Three in L'hospitalet-Près-L'andorre. There is a railway station, hotel and gite but no shops.
