Béarnaises / Pays Basque : Col du Pourtalet to Iraty
Stages P40 – P44
Col du Pourtalet (1795m) to Col du Somport (1632m)
12/03/2020
Stage: P40
Map: French IGN 1/25,000 1547OT Ossau / Vallée d’Aspe
Time: 5.00hrs (dept 08.40 / arrive 13.40)
Distance: 14km (ascent 752m / descent 1014m)
Weather: Warm and sunny
Notes: A straightforward and fairly short stage. From the hotel traverse NW to join the main East/West valley. Follow this west and then turn North to gain Col d’Aneou (2083m). Descent westwards into the valley and then turn SW and climb to the Col d’Astu. Descend through the Astun ski area then follow the road S to Col du Somport.
Accommodation: There is one hotel at Col du Somport, the Albergue Aysa. In March 2020 it was only open at weekends. The small ski resort of Candanchu is 1-2km SW of Col du Somport and there are several hotels available.
Supply options: There is a small grocery store at Candanchu.
Col du Somport (1632m) to Refuge D'arlet (1986m)
13/02/2020
Stage: P41
Map: French IGN 1/25,000 1547OT Ossau / Vallée d’Aspe & Editorial Alpina 1/25,000 Valles de Ansó y Echo
Time: 11.00hrs (dept 08.15 / arrive 19.15)
Distance: 21km (ascent 1578m / descent 1108m)
Weather: Mist and fog.
Notes: A long stage crossing 3 cols through varied terrain. The route follows the GR11 for the entire stage, excluding the final climb to the col d’arlet. If starting from Col du Somport follow the Nordic ski trails westwards into the forest. If starting from Candanchu take the GR11 trail to Col de Causiat (1634m). There is then the option to try the high traverse line of the GR11 (possibly narrow and difficult to ski) or lose height through the bois de Sansanet, crossing the Gave d’Aspe (footbridge at 1350m) and climb to an unnamed pass at 1620m by the frontier marker No 292.
The route then passes S of the Ibon de Estanes before turning N to the valley of the Subordan river. Crossing the river can be a challenge as there is no footbridge. The 500m climb to the Col d’arlet (2095m) is on steep SW facing slopes. Follow the line of the summer footpath.
Accommodation: Refuge D'arlet has a good winter room with space for 8. Mattress, blankets and solar light. There is no stove or fire.
Alternative Accommodation: There are two decent cabanes which are not directly on the route but which could offer escape options. Cabane d Escouret (1413m) and Cabane de Espelunguére (1413m). Should conditions make it difficult to complete the final climb to the Col d’arlet there is a small cabin in the valley at the start of the climb, Cabana Aguas Tuertas (1615m).
Observation: We did this stage in poor weather with limited visibility. In better conditions it should be possible to cut an hour or two from our time.
Refuge D'arlet (1986m) to Les Cabanes D’Ansabere (1580m)
14/03/2020
Stage: P42
Map: French IGN 1/25,000 1547OT Ossau / Vallée d’Aspe & Editorial Alpina 1/25,000 Valles de Ansó y Echo
Time: 8.35hrs (dept 08.15 / arrive 16.50)
Distance: 15.7km (ascent 1009m / descent 1440m)
Weather: warm and sunny
Notes: A long and complex day following the frontier ridge and crossing 4 cols. Follow the French side to the col de Saoubathou (1949m). Rejoin the ridge before col de la Cuarde (1980m) and follow the crest to the summit of Pena de Riste (2113m). Descend on the Spanish side to les Foyas 1720m. Climb W to a small col (2095m) just to the S of Pic de Laraille (the best crossing point is south of the lowest point). Descend to Ibon de Acherito (1870m) and climb to join the frontier ridge close to point 2054m. Descend a short distance easily to the hut.
Accommodation: Cabanes D’Ansabere is fairly comfortable with space for 10 pax. Mattresses (no blankets) and a reasonable wood fire.
Alternative Accommodation: There are some possible emergency huts: Cabane de Lapassa (1860m) is close to Ref D'arlet. Cabanes de la Cuarde (1810m) is on the French side below Col de Cuarde (reasonable condition). Cabane de Bonaris (1710m) is a small emergency option. If escaping from the crest to the north there are several cabanes in the lower valleys. There is nothing on the south side.
Les Cabanes D’Ansabere (1580m) to Rifugio de Belagua (1420m)
15/03/2020
Stage: P43
Maps: French IGN 1/25,000 1547OT Ossau / Vallée d’Aspe & French IGN 1/25,000 1446ET Tardets-Sorholus & Editorial Alpina 1/25,000 Valles de Ansó y Echo
Time: 7.00hrs (dept 08.15/ arrive 15.15)
Distance: 16.7km (ascent 1121m / descent 1277m)
Weather: clear morning becoming overcast later
Notes: An interesting day through limestone scenery with some complex route-finding in undulating terrain. Climb from the hut to the Collado de Petrechema / Puerto de Anso 2080m. From the col traverse NW for approx 1km holding the 2080m contour until this crosses an indistinct ridge and descend slightly to Hoya de la Solana (1830m) where there is a small metal hut. Follow undulating ground NW to Collado de Larreria (1660m). On the other side of the col turn W and descend a river valley to approx 1320m. Turn NE for the short climb to the Paso de Zemeto (1360m) then turn NW to the hut and the road. The later part of the route is waymarked GR12 with large paint markers.
Accommodation: Rifugio de Belagua is a large building on the KA 1370 road in Spain. It was being renovated in March 2020.
Alternative accommodation: Following the road 8km E takes you the French frontier at Col de la Pierre St Martin 1765m. The road becomes the D132 and 3km later reaches the small ski area of Arette la Pierre St Martin 1660m. The Refuge Jeandel is open on request, but only accepts group bookings. It would be necessary to use taxi transport to and from the Belagua.
There is a small, comfortable, private (but unlocked) cabin close to the road about 1km west of the Rif Belagua.
There is a small metal emergency cabane at Hoya de la Solana 1830m.
Bad Weather Day at Rifugio Belagua
16/03/2020
Rifugio de Belagua (1420m) to Chalets d'Iraty (1327m)
17/03/2020
Stage: P44
Map: French IGN 1/25,000 1446ET Tardets-Sorholus & French IGN 1/25,000 1346ET Foret d’Iraty
Time: 11.15hrs (dept 08.40 / arrive 19.55)
Distance: 32.1km (ascent 1461m / descent 1516m)
Weather: heavily overcast
Comment: In normal circumstances this stage should probably be done in two parts with an overnight stop at Abri D'ardane Gagnekoa. This would give a short (4-5hr) day and a longer (7-8hr) day. Exceptional circumstances arising from the Covid-19 virus caused us to combine these into a single day and omit the ascent of pic d’Orhy (2017m).
Notes: This stage mostly follows the ridgeline of the frontier. Much of this is waymarked as the GR12. The best ski line will depend on snow cover and sometimes differs from the summer path. Descend the road from the Belagua hut then traverse the hillside below the ridge at approx 1400m to Port d’Urdaite (1416m). Continue on a rising travese passing south of Port de Bimbalèta (1677m). Pass north of Lakartxela (1979m) by a small col (1815m) Traverse to Port de Belhay (1731m). Cross back to the south side of the ridge and traverse to Uthurourdinétako Portilloua (1662m). Descend to Abri D'ardane Gagnekoa. In good snow conditions it may be possible to follow the crest of the ridge west however in poor conditions the rural road 200m/300m below the ridge may be the best route to the port de Larrau (1585m). With good snow cover the traverse of pic d’Orhy (2017m) and Zazpigain (1765m) is possible. Otherwise take the GR12 traverse on the Spanish side at approx 1550m. From Cayolar d’Ibarrondoua (1306m) climb to col Sentsibile (1547m) and descend roads (Nordic pistes) to Chalets d'Iraty.
Accommodation: Chalets d'Iraty is a holiday complex with self-catering chalets plus an excellent gite.
Alternative accommodation: Abri D'ardane Gagnekoa is reported to be in good condition with 10 beds. There are 2 huts. The upper one, 200m away, is a locked shepherds hut. The Cal Pelo 1420m is a small hut by the road on the Spanish side of the port de Larrau.
Resupply options: We collected supplies of food, maps, batteries, etc for Section nine. There is a small grocery store and restaurant.
Temporary suspension of journey
Travel restrictions brought about by the Coronavirus Covid-19 outbreak in Europe forced the trip to be interrupted at this point. We travelled from Iraty to Biarritz on 18th March and flew to the UK on 20th March.
